Since then, the burnt end has morphed into a specialty of its own (alas, no longer gratis). KC pit masters separate the point (the fatty part of the brisket) from the flat. They slow smoke it over hickory or applewood, cut it into cubes, and recook it with sweet, smoky Kansas City-style barbecue sauce. It makes a great starter to a meal. Hell, I’ve eaten burnt ends many times as a meal unto itself.
Philly Cheesesteak
On the other side, we have the Philly cheesesteak—invented, so legend goes, by two brothers, Pat and Harry Olivieri, who ran a hotdog stand in downtown Philadelphia in the 1930s. Looking to beef up their repertory (pardon the pun), the pair sizzled thinly sliced steak and onions on a griddle, piling them on a hoagie roll.
The cheese (provolone) came later, as did the landmark restaurant—Pat’s King of Steaks, which still supplies Philadelphia with some of its best cheesesteaks today.
Most Philly cheesesteak joints use inexpensive cuts of beef, like top or bottom round, slicing it paper-thin on a meat slicer to make it tender. In my forthcoming book, Project Griddle, I go uptown, using thinly sliced rib-eyes or sirloin. For cheese, you want provolone—imported and aged, if possible. A sandwich these simple lives and dies by the quality of the raw materials.
So get ready for an epic titian clash: the Chiefs versus the Eagles—burnt ends versus cheesesteaks.
Who are you rooting for?
May the best team win!
Super Bowl Recipes
KC Burnt Ends
Burnt ends are a specialty of Kansas City. They come from the point of a brisket. Because the point has more marbelization than the flat of the brisket, the cubes of meat in this recipe burst with flavor.
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Philly Cheesesteak
Here’s a sneak preview from my next book Project Griddle—due out on April 29. This cheesesteak goes uptown, using thinly sliced beef rib-eye instead of the usual cheap minute steak.
Photographs by Randazzo & Blau.
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