Having been a Westie most of my life, I possess memories of a certain stall in Jurong Gateway. The Houson Duck in 21 Cafe (previously Happy Hawkers) may be a place I still pass by sometimes but rarely visit.
Established in 1988, it has received much praise over the years for its flavourful meat and was even a Singapore Best Foods awardee in 2018. My dad used to bring my brother and me there for dinner, and we always ordered the same dish – Teochew braised duck rice.
I’d been thinking back and wondering if, after all this time, anything had changed.
From what I observed, the stall has a long queue during peak hours, especially in the evening. I visited at 10.45am to avoid that problem. In fact, the food court was relatively peaceful and there were many empty tables.
I wasted no time in choping a seat and placing my order.
What I tried at The Houson Duck
I got the Duck Rice Set (S$5.50), of course — it’s the exact one I used to order in my not-so-long-ago youth.
Would it be as good as I recalled?
During the preparation, I asked the stall vendor how they made the rice. “Cooked with 5 spice,” he replied, cordially.
That explained its colour. The white rice but had taken on the deep shade from the seasoning. Taking a bite, I found it sticky and even somewhat dry. Not bad, but not exceptionally good either.
Despite this, the parts of the rice that were covered with braise sauce were quite delectable. The gravy was savoury but not overly salty, and I could make out notes of star anise, cinnamon and cloves.
I liked the gravy’s flavour but not the serving; it wasn’t enough for me! Scraping at the plate, I tried to gather whatever I could onto the rice for a bite.
The amount of meat was more generous than what I have received at many other places. Despite the appetising appearance, I found the meat to be a bit too firm for my liking. Fortunately, there were some tender slices as well.
The skin was chewy and a bit fatty, and my teeth were unable to cut through it in one bite. If I were to compare it to chicken skin, it would be a lot thicker and more gummy. There wasn’t much of it on my plate, with more lean meat than skin.
We tried the worst-rated duck rice stall (that has a Michelin guide)
My favourite side has always been the braised peanuts – soft, nutty and slightly sweet. As a child, I wished they would give a bigger portion of them to go with the rice.
Tau kwa is something nearly impossible to mess up, and this was proven right. The firm tofu was soft and crumbled in my mouth, a contrasting protein texture to the tougher meat. I found the exterior salty, but it was not from the gravy.
If there was a bone I had to pick with any part of the meal, it was none other than the braised hard-boiled egg. Imagine my utter dismay when I realised that I was given 2 slivers of egg, instead of 2 halves!
While it initially looked like a whole sliced egg was served, it was just a facade created by the yolks facing outwards. Both pieces were thin and less than a quarter of an egg each.
With that being said, the egg was delicious slathered with the gravy, which was soaked up by the powdery yolk. Still, I was thoroughly let down as I remembered they used to give a whole egg per set.
Thinking back, I realised The Houson Duck used to include a scoop of sambal paste on every plate. My set, however, did not include the familiar slab on the side.
I would’ve gone back and questioned why it was not present, if not for the fact that I only realised it halfway through the meal. Long story short, I was too paiseh to return, especially after I had puzzled the vendor with my previous query in broken Chinese.
Luckily, I did take a serving of the sauce provided at the front of the stall. Salty and tangy with vinegar, the watery chilli surprised me with its strong kick of spice. It could not replace the sambal but did a commendable job.
Since I was feeling peckish that morning, I added on the Preserved Veg garnished with deep-fried shallot for S$1.20.
Are these considered proper vegetables? Frankly, I wouldn’t think too much about that – mei gan cai is delish. The leafy mustard green pieces were cooked so long that they nearly melted with each bite, leaving a light peppery aftertaste in my throat.
As I expected, the pickled sweetness of the Preserved Vege went splendidly with the rice. It’s usually served with pork belly, but I really didn’t mind it with the duck.
The soup was very simple – it came on its own with no garnishes or added ingredients. I could clearly taste the aromatic herbal flavour. It not only went well with the rice but helped to wash down the stronger savoury notes of the main dish after I finished.
Final Thoughts
Did I set too high a standard for duck rice?
Even though it was a good meal, it wasn’t as amazing as the version in my memories. I had no objections flavour-wise, but the measly portion of the egg was disappointing.
Perhaps the quality of The Houson Duck has dropped over the years, but it really wasn’t bad. I’m not quite sure if it’s nostalgia doing its trick, but I still catch myself craving the dish’s savoury, herbal taste.
With that being said, I would visit The Houson Duck again, even if simply out of convenience. Sometimes all you’re really looking for is fuel for your memories.
Expected damage: S$5.50 – S$6.70 per pax
Restaurant All Family: Chinese restaurant sells roast duck rice, chicken rice, roast pork rice & noodles at RM4.50 each
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